Beaverdale wine kits Guide to Better Wine making
Type of Kit
There is no doubt at all about it, the little bit more you pay the much better the wine and, it certainly the case with any home brew wine kit bought from us at beaverdale wine kits. The amount of grape juice in a beaverdale kit is also an idea of how good a kit it is. The more the grape juice in the kit then the better the result will be. Also, it's the type of grape juice in the wine kit that adds to the quality of the wine. There are lots of different types of wine kit that we can recommend with total confidence. There is as much choice of grape varieties (Chardonnay, Merlot, Shiraz etc) and wine styles (Liebfraumilch, Beaujolais, Australian Reserve etc) in our Wine Kits as you could buy in the supermarket
As with all home brew kits it's important to realise that the biggest improvement is in the first four weeks being made. It'slows down over the next few months. we strongly recommend to you Beaverdale kits , don't be passed off with inferior (cheaper!!) products, it's not worth it. Remember you'll have 30 bottles, and when you work out the price difference per bottle, is it really worth it? The time to make and the and bottling time is the same. Work it out! the cost per bottle of your wine kit. is only £1.50 per bottle.
Pick out your favourite wine style and buy it! this will ensure you enjoy your homemade beaverdale wine.There is as much a choice of grape varieties (Chardonnay, Merlot, Shiraz etc) and wine styles (Liebfraumilch, Beaujolais, Australian Reserve, Port, Sherry etc) from Wine Kits as there is from the off licence!
Sterilisation and Cleaning
It is very important that all your home brewing equipment is clean and sterilised. If it's not then the wine can become infected and atste off, you could probably drink it but it could bebetter. Don't use bleach or sodium metabisulphite, they are not good for sterilisation and can leave bad after tastes. Most sterilisers need rinsing after use with clean water. It's very important to do this
Temperature and wine
Most homebrew makers suggest a temperature in their instructions which is a bit too high. This is normally because if it's hotter than you need then not much can go wrong - except it ferments out too quick. However, we have proved that if you can maintain a lower constant temperature of around 17-20 degrees Celsius (63-68F) then in the long run, your wine will certainly taste a lot better. Why don't the beaverdale wine kit manufacturers say this in their instructions? Well, for the same reasons we give above, people are too impatient. They want everything yesterday, we're all the same . Us Included. So if you can maintain a constant (it's shouldn't really be too hot one minute or overly cold the next) temperature the wine will be better
We are always being asked what difference can water make to your beaverdale wine kit ? Let us think about it for just a minute. Would you ever drink water that wasn't clean and bright? Well, why not use the cleanest best water you can with the wine? We would always suggest that you run it through a water filter to take away any impurities. If you hdon't have one, then boil it. Failing that taste it first and if it's ok (not full of chlorine or funny tatses) then use it. If it's no good or tastes funny then don't do it today try and do it another day.
Transfer and Syphoning
Through a lot of research we have found that it is better t to transfer the homemade beaverdale wine when the gravity reaches 1010- 1015 We would suggest the first fermentation is done using in a clean container with a large open neck like a bucket. A bucket is ideal or alternatively a big fermenter with a large open top . The big advantage of this is that it allows the carbon dioxide gas given off while the wine ferments to escape, and release itself from the wine quickly . Secondly, the much larger surface area of the bucket lets the yeast grow more gradually (creating less frothing and foaming problems). This is a big help when it comes to degassing and clearing the wine . The carbon dioxide is not trapped or jheld in the beaverdale wine. The big advantage of ta transferof the iwne at 1010, is that it removes the wine from the old dead yeast cells on the bottom. If the wine has some oak chippings or elderflowers in it then this also drops to the bottom of the container.Its then much easier with to clear and filter the wine c
the finish gravity) can take some time, and the wine does benefit from glass. There is also less chance of infections. Whilst it's exciting making your wine, don't spend all your time looking to see what's happening, keep the lid on!. Don't keep opening the fermenting container, this can destroy the clever blanket of carbon dioxide gas that protects the wine from oxidation and contamination.
Degassing-What is it!?
Lots of people e ask why you need remove the carbon dioxide from the finished wine. If the wine is left long time enough of the gas will come out naturally, but in the case of home-made we often want to drink it quicker! You can shake the fermentation until this is all gone. It is very hard to clear the wine with the finings until this is done properly. You can buy a "Ritchie" degasser which will make this very easy. The degasser will fit easily onto any battery power drill and stirs the wine well and fast
It makes this messy job nice and easy.